Teslogic Dashboard Kit is a hardware accessory for Tesla cars that can read data from the car’s internal Controller Area Network (CAN) bus and display it on mobile phones or tablets in real-time.

I heard about the Teslogic Dash from Ludicrous Feed on YouTube. I was very interested in using it to manually choose to pre-heat my Model Y’s battery on regional and remote Fast DC chargers.

In Australia, there are many Tesla-branded fast chargers along the coast that we can navigate to, and the car automatically preheats the battery for fast changing.

When a Tesla car uses a Tesla-branded chairing station, it can automatically pre-heat before it gets there (if navigated on-screen). to allow for the fastest charging possible.

In Australia, there are far more non-Tesla-owned charges than Tesla-owned chargers. Some of these chargers are listed on the car’s Navigation screen, but most are not. I wish Tesla had all Chargers in the navigation to prevent the “Charging Needed to reach destination” message.

I always plan trips with the Tesla Navigation first. Then, when I get out for the range Tesla chargers, I check https://www.plugshare.com/ and https://abetterrouteplanner.com/ to navigate to non-Tesla chargers.

Some non-Tesla chargers (mostly 50kWh) are in the Tesla navigation screen, but many are not. If they are not in the navigation, the car will not pre-heat the battery before charging. This will slow the charge as the car’s battery management system will obey the charging rules set and charge at safe speeds according to the charge curve (charge level + battery temperature = charge rate).

Here is our Tesla Model Y Long Range average charge curve,

I have noticed a few times when pulling up to a non-Tesla 100 kWh, 150 kWh and 250k Wh fast chargers, the battery has not been preheated, This will delay the charge until the battery heats up.

Solution: Teslogic Dashboard

The most common features of the Teslogic Dashboard:

• Add a traditional behind-the-steering-wheel instrument cluster.
• Add the ability to manually start preheating the car’s battery for fast charging at non-Tesla fast chargers.
• Blindspot monitoring of nearby cars.
• Automatic switching from Chill mode to Sport mode on hard accelerator press.
• Speed warning mode
• View internal stats like battery degradation, power usage and battery temp
• Adding this device can be read-only and 100% reversible.

More features are added all the time, and users of Teslogic Dashboard can submit new Feature requests | Teslogic (canny.io) here.

Here are my Feature Requests

• Record car stats while you drive for later review
• When charging, save stats
• Tire PSI on Main Screen
• Average speed zone UI to match the main Tesla display
• Power Colours on G Meter (to indicate aggressive driving)
  

Purchasing a Teslogic Dash

It was time to buy a Teslogic Dash from https://teslogic.co/ and give it a go.

At the store, I chose the top options, which were for 2023+ Model 3s and Ys. If you are not sure what one to order, reach out to Teslogic (I did).

I ordered a wireless charger, also.

The device took a few weeks to turn up Down Under.

Installing the Teslogic Dashboard

I followed the installation video instructions here MANUALS – Teslogic

Contents of the Teslogic Dash

I was super impressed with the Teslogic Magsafe charger that was included. I have several Magsafe phone wireless chargers and a few hold phones very well.

Mag Safe Test

Brand	Charge speed after 10 seconds	Charge speed after 1 min	Hold Force
Mous Mag Safe Charger/Stand	4 Watts	9 Watts	Poor
Apple Mag Safe Charger	4 Watts	8 Watts	Strong
Teslogic Wireless Charger	4 Watts	10 Watts	Very Strong

Before I installed the Teslogic Dash, I powered off the car.

I removed the car mats.

I removed an after-marked scuff guard.

I pulled back the rubber strip.

I popped off the top panel by pulling forward carefully.

This revealed cabling and supports.

The next step is to pop out a retaining clip at the top of the door panel.

I removed the bottom door panel by releasing the top and pulling the bottom up.

I unclipped the fabric retaining strip.

I located the two plugs (white and blue) to connect to and unplugged the white one.

I was able to see the blue plug I needed later.

fyi, Inside the white plug.

I plugged in the Teslogic Splitter.

Both ends of the plug were firmly connected and not stressed.

I plugged in the Transmitter.

I proceeded to plug into the blue plug.

This was plugged in easily.

Configuring Active Control

Earlier that day I looked at the Transmitter’s Active Control switch on the Transmitter and it was was a bit hard to see if it was ON or OFF.

I opened the device (phillips head screwdriver) to see the switch’s state. Why not look inside a device that was going to look inside my car.

I was keen to see what was inside (1x E73-2G4M08S1C Bluetooth Wireless Module, 3x SN74LVC125A High-Speed CAN Transceivers and a Main IC (Arm® 32-bit Cortex?)). The parts look reliable and are way better than USB-based Raspberry Pi-based data loggers.

A little bright light revealed the switch position (indoors) or in sunlight outside.

FYI, You will need a small pointy thing to move the switch. Be careful it is surface mounted to the PCB.

I pushed the transmitter and cabling in the gap beside the driver’s footwell.

I re-inserted the clip on the fabric, holding the cables back.

I looked at the door foot panel I removed, and two white clips were missing

I could see they fell into gaps when I pulled the panel off

I used a piece of Pointy Blue Tac to fish out the clips and put them back on the footplate.

I pushed down the door panel into the clips from the rear to the front

I reinserted the plug.

The top panel was reconnected to it’s original position.

The door rubber and after-market protection were returned to normal

The Tesla floor mat was returned.

While I was there, I added some felt strips to protect the floor carpet from dusty feet.

The after-market bucket floor mat was returned.

A towel (to catch dirt and rocks) was returned.

Baby wipes came out to wipe everything down.

Installing the Wireless Charging Mount

I moved the steering wheel forward and cleaned behind the steering wheel.

I mounted the wireless charger and made sure it had good flat contact.

The cable was mounted as advised by the manual.

I plugged in the charger into the rear USB socket.

A quick test and it works

Configuring the Teslogic Dashboard

I opened the Teslogic app on my phone in the car and swiped right to access the settings.

I do not plan on leaving my phone in the car so I did not turn on “Set Brightness to 0%”, I did set Match brightness with Tesla Main Screen.

I did not make any changes to the navigation tab.

I set the Theme to Auto and Show Battery temperature near the battery widget.

I did enable constant blindspot monitoring. This is using Tesla Vision now, but a future update will read data from the Ultra Sonic Sensors.

I do not need to log CAN bus messages and will leave this disabled.

I allowed these shortcuts to be used when the Transmitter is set to active mode.

The Teslogic dashboard can even be displayed on an iPad

Teslogic Dashboard Interface

The main screen of the Teslogic Dash shows the information that you need to see (Detected speed limit, battery per cent/temp, gear, real range (based on driving) and estimated perfect range, Motor power and energy per kilometre).

If I push the left on my right steering wheel button, the Google Map appears. This screenshot was taken on the highway.

Pushing right on the right steering wheel button will show the state of the car’s battery (currently charging at home) and where the power is going.

Pushing right on the right steering wheel button again will show the G forces on the car and performance details. The battery temperature is located here in the bottom left.

Pushing right on the right steering wheel button again will show the About this Tesla page.

The car tab will show stats related to the features of the car.

Further car battery stats can be located here.

2.2% Battery degradation is within the expected range for 10,000km. All NCM/LFP battery maximum capacities fall faster when new and then level out after the 60k range. My battery is warranted until December 2031 or 192,000 kilometres.

I can see my car has been charged with 3,011 kWh, 23% of that by fast chargers, 37% of energy was wasted when stationary (most likely Sentry mode). I use, on average 10.7 kWh a day (85c of Electricity a day)

The Teslogic dash matches the data on the main screen.

Testing on the road

We left on a 250km trip at 9 AM (very cold).

I could see the battery is a cool 9c.

Along the highway, we can see the car’s power distribution.

Manually Pre Heating the Battery (non-Tesla known Chargers)

30 minutes out of a 50 kWh DC charger (that Tesla does not acknowledge), I manually turned on battery pre-heating. The battery was 23c after 2 hours of driving.

After 11 minutes of pre-heating on the highway, the battery was 33c.

After 8 minutes more of pre-heating on the highway, the battery was 36c.

Because the battery pre-heated on a non-Tesla known charger DC charger, I was able to charge 20% faster.

After charging 40kWh, the battery was 50c.

Besides seeing car stats and temps, the Blindspot feature alone is worth installing a Teslogic dash. Now I can see nearby cars before looking in mirror or waiting for Tesla to let me know a car is nearby after I turn an indicator on.

I did not test out the regen percent as I like 100% regen and one pedal driving.

Wireless charging not Found (and fix)

After my first trip, my phone’s battery was 30%, the wireless charger did not charge my phone.

It turns out that the metal TesLogic puc I added during installation blocks wireless charging; I missed this in the manual. Only stick this on if you do not want Wireless charging. I removed it at charging was working again.

Transmitter Not Found (and fix)

On day two (2), I went for a drive and turned on my Tesllogic App, which reported that no transmitter was found. After a quick inspection, I disconnected and reconnected the transmitter data cable, and it was found. I must have been on a bumpy road, or the transmitter cable was knocked out. The gap where the transmitter sits is quite spacious, and I guess it can rattle around.

I added a zip tie around the transmitter and plug and wrapped it in soft felt tape to stop any possible rattles, just in case.  I dislike rattles and just wanted to be sure, I never heard the transmitter rattle on day 1.

Here is the felt tape I use for stopping plastic on plastic tapping (e.g Tesla B Pillar Rattle)

 

I cut a few notches out of the zip tie so that the leads on either side would not be pushed back so far.

Conclusion

Pros

• Being able to Pre Heat Battery at non-Tesla Chargers and charge faster.
• Better Eyesight on vital stats.
• Automatic blind spot indicator on the test logic screen even if the turn signal is not activated yet
• Nerd Stats
• Software Features
• Loving the new features coming to existing owners.

Cons

• It would have been nice if the Active Control switch was white.
• The dash blocks a little air con to the face a little but it more than makes up for it.

I would definitely buy this again.

Teslogic also sell a Pro Boost and Pro Performance variant of the V2 TesLogic Dashboard.

Thanks Go to LudicrousFeed on YouTube, where I found out about this.

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